Fashion History - Edwardian Fashion Designs of Late 1890's - 1914 With Pictures
Edwardian fashion refers to the clothing that was in style between the late 1890's and 1914 or the beginning of the Great War (World War I). Also called La Belle Epoque (the Beautiful Era), and the Gilded Age, this was a time when women's fashions took on a new opulence and extravagance, inspired by the hedonistic lifestyle of Britain's King Edward VII.
The design trends of Edwardian times revolved around the S curve when corsets created an S shaped female silhouette, a change from the Victorian hour glass figure.
The S bend corset forced the hips back and bust forward. The ideal female figure was a mature woman with a pigeon shaped monobosom.
Edwardian Directoire Style
King Edward VII
After the death of the highly influential Queen Victoria in 1901, her son Edward rose to the throne. Edward VII has the distinction of being the longest lasting Prince of Wales (59 years) and spent much of his attention on his lavish life style. Edward is rumored to have had 55 love affairs, including romantic liaisons with famous actresses Lillie Langtry and Sarah Bernhardt.
The British royal family were the trendsetters of the day. British high society reigned as the cultural elite and Edward's extravagance ruled fashion and set the tone for behavior and fashion. Middle class women looked up to the elite for inspiration and hoped to emulate their 'betters.'
"Nothing succeeds like excess." - Oscar Wilde
The Influence of the Industrial Revolution on Ladies' Fashion
By the late 1890's, the Industrial Revolution had created new technologies that changed the way people lived. The growth of factories spawned a large middle class as large corporations generated new wealth and an upwardly mobile middle class.
Sewing machines enabled the production of ready made clothing and made it easier for women to sew their own clothes.
An increased literacy in the new middle class gave women access to information.
The inventions of the typewriter, telephone, and telegraph offered women increased employment opportunities when previously, womens' jobs were restricted to domestic servitude or factory work.
Despite the fact that a large majority of working women labored long hours for low pay in dimly lit, poorly ventilated factories and mills, a new kind of women was beginning to emerge. The new women of the early 1900's was educated and informed, with an interest in politics and social causes.
The opposing concepts of an educated middle class woman who was active and outgoing contrasted with the urge toward luxury and hedonism to create the culture we call Edwardian.
Gibson Girl by Charles Dana Gibson
Alice Roosevelt Longworth
Edwardian Fashion Icons
All fashion eras have their archetypes. Edwardian trendsetters included the Gibson Girl and Alice Roosevelt Longworth.
The Gibson Girl was a fictitious, unnamed character portrayed in the illustrations of Charles Dana Gibson who created what would become the feminine ideal for 20 years.
The Gibson Girl was shown as youthful and strong, fun loving, yet sophisticated. She was tall and slender with a long neck, ample bust and hips, and a small waist. Her upswept bouffant hairdo was all the rage and her aristocratic bearing inspired young women everywhere. The Gibson Girl was smart and independent, charming, and intelligent but was never shown to be political or interested in social causes.
The Gibson Girl became a merchandising bonanza. Her face and form were depicted on trays, on prints, pillow cases, souveniers, and ashtrays.
Alice Roosevelt Longworth, the eldest daughter of Theodore Roosevelt was a high profile society figure in the USA. Beautiful and outspoken, Alice rode in cars with men, smoked, and kept a pet snake. The song 'Alice Blue Gown,' referred to the popular shade called Alice Blue named after her eyes - light blue with a hint of gray.
Her father, the President of the United States once said, 'Either I can run the country or tend to Alice but I can't possibly do both."
Edwardian Golfing Costume with Tailored Jacket
A New Century - New Fashion Trends in Skirts and Dresses
As the century changed so changed clothing design trends. Gone was the bustle (a pad at the rear end) and heavy fabrics.of the previous century. A new, lighthearted concept overtook women's fashions along with a sentiment of eternal summer with dresses made of light weight fabrics for a more active lifestyle.
- The 2 pieces dress came into vogue. Skirts hung tight at the hips and flared at the hem, creating a trumpet or lily-like shape.
- Skirts in 1901 had decorated hems with ruffles of fabric and lace.
- Some dresses and skirts featured trains.
- Tailored jackets, first introduced in 1880, increased in popularity and by 1900, tailored suits became hugely popular.
- By 1904, skirts became fuller and less clingy.
- In 1905, skirts fell in soft folds that curved in, then flared out near the hemlines.
- From 1905 - 1907, waistlines rose.
- In 1910, the hobble skirt was introduced; a tight fitting skirt that restricted a woman's stride.
- Lingerie dresses, or tea gowns made of soft fabrics, festooned with ruffles and lace were worn indoors.
The S Curve
Edwardian Longline Corset - 1910
Edwardian Blouses and Bodices
The blouses and bodices of the Edwardian period were embellished with pieces of lace and bead work, and lines of ruffles.
- In the late 1890's, bodices were bloused with a pouched effect. Corsets gave women a monobosum - the corset did not divide the bust but rendered a pigeon-like look.
- By 1904, blousing spread to the sides of the bodice.
- Blouses, or bodices, featured high necks in light fabrics or lace.
- Evening wear bodices showed more skin with sweet heart, round, or square necklines.
- Early Edwardian sleeves fit tightly at the top of the arm, filled toward the lower end and gathered into a tight cuff.
- 1900 - 1905 Edwardian fashion trended toward open end pagoda sleeves.
- By 1905, fullness at the wrist was gone and sleeves were wide and full at the top.
- Sleeves stayed full at the top through 1909. They narrowed below the elbow and fit snuggly at the wrist in a style often called Leg of Muttun.
- In 1910, the kimono sleeve was open, loose, and comfortable.
Edwardian Fashion's Big Hats - Queen Mary and Ladies
Edwardian Fashion - Grande Duchess Tatiana 1912
Edwardian Shoes, Boots, and Hats
SHOES AND BOOTS
The lace-up boots of the late 1800's continued on into Edwardian footwear.
- Better shoes and boots were made of sealskin and were thin, durable, and nearly waterproof. Expensive sealskin was thin, comfortable, and insulating for both hot and cold weather.
- Lesser priced shoes and boots made of tooled Moroccan leather were stiff, hot, and heavy.
- Kid boots and shoes were a lesser quality footwear that did not maintain their shape.
- The Great War created a leather shortage and saw the introduction of cloth topped shoes and boots, functional footwear that appeared mostly in black.
HATS
Wide brimmed hats were trimmed in feathers that often extended beyond the hat brim. By 1911, smaller hats still used a lot of feathers taken from the breeding plumage of wading birds created in factories called Plumassiers.
When the Audubon Society informed the public of the dire threat to the American bird population and the decline of wading birds due to the heavy demand for feathers, women responded in shock. Commerce in feathers ceased abruptly, leaving warehouses full of feathers. Some of these factories and warehouses caught fire and burned when unscrupulous businessmen sought to recoup loses through insurance.
Influential Edwardian Fashion Designer Paul Poiret
Ladies' Edwardian fashion was greatly influenced by the designer Paul Poiret, known as the creator of modern clothing shapes and designs. His clothing designs were inspired by art including classicism, Orientalism, and Art Nouveau. Poiret's comfortable styles freed women from the constriction of corsets and relied on draping for effect.
In 1908, he introduced the straight tube sheath dress. Women abandoned the S corset for longer, straighter corsets and bras. His Oriental style became popular after the Ballet Russes performed Scheherazade in Paris in 1910. Fashion concepts included exotic designs based on harem wear in bright colors with beaded embellishment. The lampshade tunic came into vogue toward the end of Edwardian times as did the Directoire style of 1912 (as pictured at the top of this article) which featured a high waist that accentuated a long, slim figure.
Turbans and jeweled slippers were a feature of Orientalism and a new exotic style of dress for Edwardian women.
But, the Great War (World War I)put an end to extravagant trends as the world turned to a war economy with shortages of fabric and leather, and the more austere fashions usually dictated by the privations of war.
(All images are from Wikimedia Commons)
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Comments
alek - I wrote this whole article without complaining about the Edwardian jacket I used to own and a friend made off with. Oh, I wish I had it now! Thanks!
You have obviously done a lot of research and put together a fascinating Hub. Love the illustrations.
The Edwardian style was very elegant, but it is pleasing that women no longer wear corsets (usually - and never in our case) and can wear trousers without shocking anybody.
2patricias - I love Edwardian fashions, they are so beautiful and romantic! It seems like so often, years of excess are followed by years of privation. And the S bend corset was supposed to be an improvement over the Victorian corsets!
Loved this beautiful and interesting hub. Thank you, Dolores. Fascinating to see how our ideas of style and beauty in women's fashions have changed so drastically since this era.
drbj - I'd love to dress like the Edwardians, except for the corsets, of course, haha! Thank you!
I love those earlier fashion periods. In fact I have several antique "Godey's Lady's Book" prints which my mother gave me, framed on my bedroom wall. They are somewhat sooner than the Edwardian period, but very delightful. She herself was part of the Edwardian era, born in 1892. And I also have a fantastic set of original watercolor 1930s fashion illustrations, some even with actual fabric swatches. My sister found those for me, knowing my love of fashion. These were sent out from Marshall Fields in Chicago to an actual customer in Waco, Texas in 1936 (the letter accompanied them) - for her selection. Prices are on them in pen and ink. They are quite amazing.
I love your hub! I am bookmarking it and voting it UP! And I agree that the corsets were not all that appealing. My mother would have attested that ironing the frills and trims with flatirons was no picnic, either. LOL. She did that for her classmates to earn her way through college!
Nellieanna - Good to see you! I think that Edwardian fashions were so pretty! Not too crazy about the corsets or the stupid looking monobosum, but late Edwardian is so Bohemian! I wonder if you have created a hub about those fashion illustrations - they sound just beautiful!
So elegant and swoopy these Edwardian fashions! It must have taken hours to get ready for anything during those fashion times. Corsets can be fun, but I wouldn't give up my slack suits of these times! The images are outstanding and your knowledge of the era is amazing. I found this a really interesting read.
K9
Gorgeous hub! The fashions of the time were so elaborate and there were so many layers to contend with. Must have taken quite a long time for women to get dressed every morning! I love the Gibson Girl look. Thanks for this great series on the history of women's fashion! Looking forward to more!
I love the pictures too - I have a feeling I would be best suited in the 'golfing costume' - now if only I could golf! Or at least do it so people quit laughing!
It's so much fun to see what fashion looked like in other eras. Thanks for this. Now I know what Alice Blue is.
K9 - thank you for your kind comment! Knowledge is only research. I've always loved Edwardian styles, but did not know much - there is always so much more!
linda - guess I should write one about Victorian fashion, though I do love the look of the dark ages, so often confused with Renaissance fashion. Thank you!
Audrey, hi! Oh, I don't know about that teeny waist! I like Paul Poiret's checked suit. I need to look at some old family photos. I think I have some great Edwardian stuff in there. Thanks!
E A Wright - it certainly is! Thank you!
wow... that era's clothes were so glamorous.. I love the art of the period as well. great post!!
hi, carolina - thank you. Edwardian times were indeed interesting, so many changes! And you're right about the art, I love Art Nouveau!
I really enjoyed this! I love learning more about period fashion - and the evolution of it all is so fascinating!
Rose - I got so into the evolution of fashion and how current events influence fashion when I wrote my 1930's fashion hub. And I wrote that because I found an old magazine in a closet. Isn't it cool how things catch your interest and how one hub can lead to another, not to mention a little self education. Thanks!
loved learning about Alice Roosevelt Longworth...what an awesome lady way ahead of her time! Thanks for this wealth of information on Edwardian fashions. :)
kitty - she was quite something. I found a youtube of her appearing on a talk show late in her life and she was still full of beans. Thank you!
Hi, this was lovely! I remember those type of photos so well, I have a load of them at home showing my gran and aunts wearing them! what a great fashion period, the ladies were so elegant, I feel so jealous! we seem to have lost it now, mind you I don't think I could wear those long dresses! really enjoyed it, thanks nell
Nell - I love the look, except for those durn corsets and that ridiculous shape. But, obviously, they didn't all wear that look and it did fall by the wayside. I too, have some old photos, though I think they were a bit later, the late teens. My grandmother and great aunts appear in older photos, all dressed up in very Bohemian costumes when they were younger. Thanks for dropping by!
I love the Edwardian Golfing Costume with the tailored jacket. I could really see me in that, but jazzed up a bit...shorten the skirt, lose a little puffiness of the sleeve, rock the hat sideways with a little tilt, and POW I'm styl'n!!! Isn't that how fashion trends evolve? We just use a style, no matter how old, and change it to suit (pun intended) current times and or our own tastes. Love It!!!
imatellmuva - thank you,dear! I love the Edwardian look sans the S corset which does not look so much better than the old Victorian corset. I think the Bohemian styles and the Poiret designs are lovely.
Dolores I think I need one of those corsets...I might be light-headed while wearing it, but chile'.... I'll be look'n good!!
imatellmuva - oh no, you would not just be light headed but in real discomfort too! The pain on your face would offset the hour glass figure! haha! Nice to see you!
I feel the ancient eras fashion is repeating again. In 2010 collections, many designers had copied the previous eras designs.
dpatullo - yes, they sure do. I guess designers come to appreciate ancient fashions; the 1914 dress pictured above looks ancient as they come. And so many times we've seen glimmers of older looks. Thanks!
I enjoyed reading your hub. It was interesting, and I loved all the pictures! I love history, and when I read I like to really be able to paint a picture what the characters are wearing, what they are eating, the music, the sounds, the smells. This type of hub is helpful.
Bella - thank you! As I have recently become interested in historic costume, I find myself looking at the costumes in TV shows and movies. Rebecca's dress in an episode of the old show Daniel Boone was off by 40 years.
Love this hub! You def have a new follower, it was very well researched and I loved the video at the end.
So much fun to read! The lampshade tunic is gorgeous. It seems like everyone has a favourite.
Awesome! I'll be following you (in my Corset, of course).
ar. colton - I really like the Edwardian fashions. They are so beautiful and I had a great time researching this one. Thanks!
Clara - ugh, forget the corset. Or, if you really want to be miserable, you could wear a Victorian corset. Thanks!
Exellent summary of a fascinating topic.
Notrum - thank you!
Excellent hub! Really well-written and very informative! I love learning more about the way (women especially) used to live.
Charlotte - every time I write one of these fashion hubs, I become interested in the way people, especially women, lived during the time I am researching. Of course how they live influences fashion and I include some of that sort of info, but the times really draw you in. Thanks!
Beautifully presented fashion, thanks for this hub.
I love the old style of clothing, I was in the clothing business for 25 years and some modern designs resembled the old style of fashion.... Great hub
smartnet - thank you! I love the Edwardian look, especially the more romantic, looser styles.
Edwardian is my favorite style. My wedding dress was made in 1905. I wore the big hat with feathers, hanging pearls etc. I carried the lace umbrella too. I just loved this hub...
JB - really? Wow, some one really took good care of that dress. You should write a hub and show a picture of it. People love vintage clothing and you probably have a lot to say about it. Plus, I'd love to see it! Thank you!
Thanks for the great hub!
It's amazing to know how fashion changed from one form to another. And it doesn't deny the fact that people of all ages and centuries have certain taste with regards to what is hot or not. Thanks for this comprehensive and awesome hub. Voted this up and awesome.
Cathyrin - thank you - glad you enjoyed!
This is a great article and I love the pictures! But I am doing a project on the Fashion Debate in the Gilded Age and I need to know the failures of the debate as well as successes and consequences. Your hub has helped me with successes but I REALLY need the failures. Please help! Thank you!
Hi, HJ - what debate? Are you talking about the business with the health corsets? Or the difference between the looser, peasant styles and the stiff, pigeon look? Some of the new looks that were introduced failed, but popped up again in later years. For instance the bob haircut was an Edwardian flop, but became all the rage in the 1920's.
I think the debate was women wanted to to change their fashion like shortening their dresses etc. But Thank you so much for the failures! Please let me know if you know more! thank you!
Hi, HJ - the concept of women wearing trousers was also introduced during the Edwardian period. Harem style pants were shown with tunic tops. Earlier, bloomers had been introduced for women to wear for sports and cycling, but the idea did not go over very well. Thank you for your interest. Good luck with your project.
I adore that lampshade tunic picture. Edwardian fashion was so elegant and beautiful. Thank you for this interesting hub!
dingdon - sheesh your name is a pain to write the whole thing but quite unique and easy to recognize. Oh boy, yes, Edwardian clothing was so beautiful but after writing all these fashion hubs, I think I like the World War 1 era (1914 - 1919) fashions best. They really started to simplify and lost the tight corsets, paving the way for the loose shift style dresses of the Roaring 20's.
What a wonderful fashion!
I am doing a project on the gilded age, and I want to thank you because this helped me alot.
Paula - oh joy that makes me so happy - that this hub actually was helpful to someone. Thank you so much for your kind comment!
So beautiful...they suffered for fashion, but they were so elegant. I bet they couldn't wait to change out of all that at the end of the day...but even their grubbies were layered lol!
mollymeadows - maybe they were uncomfortable, but I imagine they felt that it was a great improvement over the restraining fashions of the previous Victorian period. They did look beautiful! But I'm glad I live in more comfortable times. Thank you!
alekhouse 18 months ago
Love this hub, as I do all of your interesting hubs. The photos are great. Thanks for a fun read.