The History of Shoes - Ancient and Early Footwear
Shoes are the foundation of every outfit. They allow a person to move safely and comfortably on unforgiving surfaces, protect the foot from the elements, and add that final statement of panache.
The oldest surviving shoes date back around 10,000 years. These sandals made of rope were found in Oregon in the United States. The oldest leather shoe was found in a cave in Armenia and was about 5,500 years old. These simple shoes, made of a single piece of leather were stitched with leather. (See video below)
Archeological evidence suggests that East Asians may have worn shoes 42,000 years ago. A skeleton studied by anthropologist Erik Thinkaus shows slimmer toe bones than most early humans who walked barefoot which develops thicker lesser toe bones. Studies of foot anatomy in several ancient skeletons show a general change between 26,000 - 30,000 years ago, when the smaller toe bones appear less robust, due, experts believe, to the support given by shoes.
A 27,000 year old Russian skeleton was found to have small lesser toe bones and ivory beads on and around the ankle and foot, suggesting decoration and the fact that the shoes were not merely practical, but worn as a display of status.
The Pharoah Wore Flip-Flops
Gladiator Sandals
Paduka
Sandals - Ancient Footwear
Sandals are a simple form of foot covering consisting of a sole held to the foot with straps. They can be made of leather, plastic, straw, rope, metal, or old tires.
Suited well to hot, dry climates, and rocky regions, sandals protect the foot from poisonous insects, stones, and burning hot sand as well as keeping the foot aired and cool.
- 8,000 - 10,000 years ago, the Anasazi of the American Southwest wore braided, woven, flexible sandals fastened to the foot with a V shaped strap.
- The Japanese created the geta, a wood soled sandal worn with socks called tabi. For over 2,000 years, the geta has been a clog or platform style sandal, very like a flip-flop that kept the foot elevated from dampness and mud.
- In India, tall, knobbed sandals made of water buffalo hide called chappli, and a metal and wood paduka have keep the foot slightly elevated from the ground for over 5,000 years.
- Sandals are depicted on the tomb reliefs of Ancient Egypt. Beautiful sandals were a status symbol, worn by the elite outdoors. Even the Pharaoh did not wear sandals indoors. Though most Ancient Egyptians went barefoot, sandals became quite common to those who could afford them. Notice the picture of Ramses III wearing what appear to be glorified flip-flops curled up at the toe.
- Unlike most European shoes, archeological evidence shows that the Ancient Egyptians made shoes for the right and left foot.
- When Howard Carter discovered and opened the tomb of King Tut (1341 - 1323 BCE) he found 93 separate items or fragments of footwear including elaborately decorated flip-flops with marquetry veneer.
- Alexander the Great unified Greece in the 4th century BCE, ushering in an unprecedented age of increased wealth, and leisure, along with the development of science, the arts, and sports led to the creation of many sandal styles, and rules set out as to which sandal was worn for a specific kind of occasion or status.
- Rome, like Greece, restricted the use of the sandal. The word sandal comes from the Latin word "sandalium.' Roman style sandals, or gladiator sandals, have had several revivals in the 20th century and are quite popular today.
When the Christian Roam Empire decreed that bare toes were immodest in mixed company, the sandal disappeared, except for cloistered monastic orders, from Western Culture for over 1,000 years.
Moccasins Circa 1860
Moccasins
A moccasin is a simple shoe often made out of a single piece of leather and stitched together, held closed with leather laces. Famous for being worn by indiginous Americans and early American pioneers, the basic moccasin type of shoe was worn for thousands of years worldwide.
Neolithic people made simple shoes like moccasins which were worn until the Middle Ages.
Moccasins can be plain leather or decorated with beading to create beautiful footwear. They are still available in stores today. There are internet sites that instruct you how you can make your own. (Link below)
Klompen
Pattens
Clogs, Pattens, and Sabot
Wood soled shoes are thought, by some experts, to have been worn by the Romans. Whenever they originated, clogs and other wood soled shoes have been popular footwear worn by peasants and workers throughout Europe since the Middle Ages. Like the Japanese wood soled geta, the elevation provided by a thick, wooden sole protects the foot from mud, road debris, stones, cold, and dampness.
Klompen are the all wood clogs worn in Holland and pop up today as souvenirs in the Netherlands.
Pattens were a type of slip-on wood soled over shoe worn during the Middle Ages and up until Victorian times. The wood sole was held on to the foot by straps. Usually worn outdoors, they were occasionally worn indoors for mopping or walking on wet, or cold stone floors. Later versions were made of two joined metal rings.
In the Late Middle Ages, a form of platform clog called chopines became popular with t he elite, at first to protect the thin shoes of the day, then as status symbols that increased the height of the wearer. When prostitutes began to wear them in order to be seen in the street, the style fell out of favor.
The sabot was the traditional French wood soled shoe worn by factory workers and peasants. Legend has it that angry workers used their sabot to damage factory machinery, leading to the word 'sabotage.'
Clogs came back in fashion in the 1970's. With leather uppers and some with rubberized or cork soles, they are still popular footwear for health-care professionals and others who appreciate the easy slip-on style and wide toes.
Shoes in the MIddle Ages - Circa 1200
Shoes in the Middle Ages - 1468
Early Shoe Fashion Excess in Europe
Until the 19th century, both shoes were the same, not made for the right or left foot. The shoe would gradually begin to fit the foot properly after some wear. During the early Middle Ages (also called the Dark Ages) shes were very simple, moccasin like footwear, often made with a single piece of leather that was cut, folded, and fastened to the foot.
It was not until the high and Late Middle Ages when new ideas and technologies enabled a new kind of creativity to enter into the production of shoes (as well as clothing) that the idea of fashion as a distinctive style and design that conveyed status on the wearer appeared.
The first real shoe fashion excess showed up in the late 1100's. Long, pointed toes gained a brief popularity, fizzled out, then came back in a huge way in the 1300's with the poulaine.
Restricted to the elite, the fancy styles, pointed toes, and expensive materials caused the Church some grief due to the immodesty of the excess.
As the growing merchant class increased their wealth, the aristocracy wanted to protect their status. Sumptuary laws that restricted the types of clothing a person could wear depending on tier station. were passed to prevent the upstart bourgeoisie from mimicking the elite class. Restrictions were placed on the length of a shoe's toe, limiting the length according to the wearer's income and position in society.
By the end of the 15th century, the pointy toe gave way to a wider shoe called a hornbill or bearpaw. Width was also limited according to the wearer's status.
Silk Damask High Heels With Buckles - 1740
Heeled Mules - Mid 18th Century
High Heels and Buckled Shoes
The Ancient Greeks introduced a type of platform sandal worn by actors in plays. The cork soled shoes showed the importance of the character depending on the height of the shoe.
Later, 15th century Venetian women wore stilted mules (slip on shoes) or chopines to display thier status. The finest shoes were embellished with tack work and punch work, earning the anger of the Church.
In the 1590's, high heels displaced platform mules, then rose higher during the reign of Loouis XIV. The wearing of high heels signified status and wealth, creating a regal appearance for the wearer.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, metal buckles were added to the shoes, replacing laces. Buckles were made of brass, silver, or steel and could be decorated with jewels and gem stones. The most beautiful and expensively made buckled heels were worn by the wealthiest people, creating the term 'well heeled' to describe someone who was very rich. Lavishly made shoes with heels and elaborate buckles were abandoned after the French Revolution.
The high heel rose to varying heights during the 1700's with English heels that were low to medium in height, and thicker than on the continent. In France, they wore heels with a slight curve. But the Italians wore the high, narrow spiked heel we call stiletto heels.
Oldest Sandal - 10,000 Years Old
World's Oldest Leather Shoe
How to make your own moccasins
Clothing of the Early Middle Ages
- Fashion History - Clothing of the Early Middle Ages - Dark Ages 400 - 900 CE
Clothing styles of medieval Europe in the early Middle Ages (aka Dark Ages) were not what we know of as fashion. Beautiful clothing was available for the wealthy and many today admire the simple peasant costume of common people. But clothing styles d
Clothing of the High and Late Middle Ages
- Fashion History of the High and Late Middle Ages - Medieval Clothing
The evolution of fashion in the high and late Middle ages due to the cultural influences of Asia and improved technology in the making of European medieval clothing. Attractive styles became more available to new middle class, and clothing styles cha
Comments
I learned so many things, here. Fascinating- and the way shoe terms have seeped into everyday vernacular is amazing too! Thanks, Dolores!
I did wonder about the story of those shoes from China which bound the girls' feet so they didn't grow normally, preventing their running away!
Voting up, useful, beautiful and awesome. Very well done! I read along, lost in the story!
You have certainly 'covered the waterfront' with your history of shoes, past and present, Dolores. So shoes may have been worn 42,000 years ago? Not surprised since I'm sure there is a pair in my closet at least that old.
I've been writing quite a bit about shoes and feet and the subject is just so fascinating. I love your hub and am going to put links to some of my shoe hubs and lenses. Many thanks. (voted up et al)
Cogerson - guess I need to clarify and rewrite. The 10,000 year old rope sandals were found in Oregon. 8,000 year old rope sandals were found in the American SW, made by the Anasazi.
Thank you!
Hi, Nellieanna - I was thinking about those shoes that created the Lotus foot but I did not want to include them - the practice was so disturbing and terrible. Thanks.
Hi, drbj - they think that because of the change of bones in the toes. People who went barefoot had stronger lesser toe bones. And people who lived during the Ice Age wrapped their feet in fur 'socks' kept on with sandals. Then they eventually evolved into fur boots. There was so much info, this hub would have been way too long. Thanks!
Les Trois Chenes - Once I decided to include shoes in my fashion history hubs, I am realizing how much information is out there. What is most amazing is how little shoes have changed!
I agree, Dolores, and rather suspected you'd deliberately omitted those. Thanks.
And I can readily believe how much material there is for this subject. In any case, your choices of what to include are great!
I guess feet can accommodate just so many different designs for their "clothings". They all need a sole of some kind, some means of keeping it fastened to the foot and whatever further covering fits the environment! The variables are mostly practical: - sandals in hot places and boots in cold ones, for instance, with availability and suitability of materials to the demands of environment another factor. Status factors seem to be mostly confined to those "in the know" about their significance. haha. But isn't it also true for all attire's status distinctions?
Nellianna - well sure. The more money you have, the better your clothes. One time, up in PA, there goes this Amish guy walking down the street. Not an uncommon sight. But what was it about him that had every head turn? It was the cut and fabric of his black suit. A plain Amish type suit, but you could just tell somehow, that this was one high quality suit.
Ah, yes. But quality and self-promotion are two different things, as you illustration speaks well.
My Dad grew up a Mennonite, from which the Amish sect split. The split was due to members fearing the original group was becoming too "worldly" when they began to use modern devices, such as ploughs and motorized vehicles. Dad did not continue as an active member after he was fully grown but the basic morals and principles never left him and that is mostly all I knew of it, though his mother lived with us for a time when I was very young.
When she passed away, there were only ultra-plain, unadorned clothes in her simple trunk of things, but everything was of high quality. Dad always chose simple but quality things himself, both in attire and other areas of personal choice. He would NEVER ever deign to wear anything made of a man-made fiber. In foods, as well, he always went for the natural and original forms, never the processed and manufactured substitutes. There is a quality of quality about real silk, cotton, linen and wool - - and "the real spread" - butter!
But one thing he avoided more than anything fake or inferior was what he called "show". To flaunt or parade one's importance were simply not options. He knew that demonstration of excellence spoke for its own merits more than attention-getting ploys, I'm sure. I feel that way about it, too. Far too much "show" in the world is made of nothing but PR and hot air. ;-> LOL
Thank you for the history on shoes. I do not think I would like to wear the Paduka.
Very interesting article and videos; I really enjoyed the read. Mme. Pompadour, what a classy woman and shoes to match the dress...
Hi Dolores, nice hub and i liked the history of the shoes and the way you described it. Voting it up and clicking beautiful.
Really fun hub. So much information. I've never even thought of their being a history of shoes...doesn't speak well of where my mind goes since I wrote one about toilets...hmm.
"When prostitutes began to wear them in order to be seen in the street, the style fell out of favor." - Hilarious since now when prostitutes do something popstars immediately follow and it becomes all the rage.
Great hub!
wow, what a very concise article, i never knew shoes had such an interesting history. Excellent work.
Great article and comments. Voted up and useful!
Dolores! You know that I am a true fan of your historical fashion hubs...and golly! This hub is fantastical! I love shoes and I LOOOOOVE this hub! Shoes are a big part of our every-day lives, something that we tend to forget...things that have had a large part of our comfort for thousands of years. You've done a wonderful job on this hub...as always, love! :) Voted up and awesome!
Nellieanna - those morals that stay with us...I understand how the Mennonite and Amish people are very practical and high quality, natural fabrics are long lasting and durable. Why buy or make a cheap piece when you can have something that lasts a long time? I broke down and bought myself an expensive pair of clogs 5 years ago, wear them often. They are just like new (with a spit and polish).
Granny's House - Ha, no, me neither, but they are beautiful. A pair of them would look nice beside my old wooden cobbler's forms. Thanks!
Nancy - she may have looked classy, but she was the mistress of the king. Thanks!
sweetie - thank you!
arcolton - ha, thanks! I think I read that striped stockings were worn by prostitutes. We still see them occasionally.
paul gc and dallas - thank you!
kittythedreamer - thank you so much! The more I research this stuff, the more interesting it becomes. I'd like to do a whole hub on just sandals or sneakers. When you get drawn in the info just keeps piling up.
Hi :)
I really enjoyed reading that ~ very educational and interesting!
Awesome hub!Now I know where the term 'well-heeled' came from. Still can't understand why anyone would want to wear stilettos. I'd sprain my ankle in 2 seconds flat.
Trish - thank you !
visionandfocus - stilettos do look so good though. For a while, I'd go into these huge shoe stores and see thousands of gorgeous high heels, then wonder who wore them. I rarely see anyone wearing them. Thanks!
Well-done. I would love to have a pair of paduka. Walking on them would probably be a little challenge, but that's ok because they look so awesome sick!
Om, I would guess you'd have to shuffle if you were wearing paduka. I wanted to make a pair of geta for my sister and had them all planned out in my mind (like all the other stuff up there) but she's got a bum ankle and so that gives me the excuse I need not to do it, haha. Thanks!
Wow.... you have done a great job here. I love this hub very much. I had never heard about the history of shoes before. You covered all valuable informations. I learn much from you and I got new knowledge. Rated up!
Prasetio
Hi, Prasetio - thank you for stopping by. I am so glad you enjoyed my hub!
I love the history lessons from you Dolores!!! I saw a show on MPT where a visit was made to a shoe archive, that had many of the shoes in your hub. The shoes were from around the world and were hundreds and thousands years old. It is so interesting to learn how people not only lived, but their fashion sense and more. I can't help but wonder if the platform shoe is influenced by the Paduka.
Fascinating hub on the history of footwear Dolores, and some great pictures and photos. It is so interesting how shoes have changed over the centuries and how they have developed
Hi, Ima - good to see you! I remember a phrase - the Duke of Paduka and keep thinking of that when I think of those shoes. Funny how so little changes in the world of shoes. I had the most wonderful pair of platforms - beige and gray saddle oxfords on polished wood platforms. They made me about 6'3". I probably looked like a nut. Thanks!
CM - changed but not changed. So many images that I looked at show shoes that are hundreds of years old and would still look great today. Thanks!
Wow. Thanks. Didnt know all this before!
Hi, fascinating hub, Its something that you don't really think about and then you realise that these shoes, some of them 10,000 years old are so similar to the ones we wear today, really interesting thanks nell
Hi, Nell - that's what got me too. The idea that the Pharaoh wore flip flops is just so cool! Thank you!
an interesting piece of history about shoes, i'm glad our shoes today are much comfortable than many of the shoes before.
Great info about shoes, a woman's best friend. :)
I so enjoyed your wonderful Hub about the history of shoes. She are a fine raconteur and your subject today is one that the masses should find fascinating. Thanks for the good read. It is very good.
Hi, James - thank you so much. Especially cool hearing from a LEVEL VIII COMMENTER. No offense, I just am becoming a bit amused by the ranking of commenters. The masses should be interested in this as, for most of human history, the masses wore no shoes. They were generally worn by the well heeled.
Those paduka's do not look particularly comfortable :). Nice hub! Surely didn't know shoes go back that far in time.
bjornborgboxers - looking at them, I can't help but think of "the Duke of Paduka," whatever that was....
Fortunately, shoes are now more comfortable than sandal that called "Paduka"... Nice hub!
I never knew that the history of shoes is this long. Great research and nicely jotted together
Btw: Klompen are not typically Dutch. In fact, they originated in France. :)
Abby - thank you!
ershruti - thank you very much!
bjorn - funny you should say that but there is a lot of discussion on where they originated. I decided to use the Netherlands origin and use as it is the most famous. Some experts believe that they were used in Ancient Rome as well. Thank you for your interest!
What an interesting hub. Who knew an article about shoes could be so interesting. After seeing some of the shoes of days gone by, I don't think I'll ever complain again about my footwear. I also enjoyed the video, you did a wonderful job with this. Voted up, interesting awesome. This was so interesting that I just had to plus 1 it.
fastfreta - thank you. Who knew that shoes could be so interesting? What woman doesn't? Hah, ha.
Well you know what they say “ If the shoe fits you have to wear it!!” must be related to sabotage. So as the saying relates to the concept “if your guilty take what’s coming” could that be referring to the god awful painful shoes that have been hoisted on us by brilliant designers who have wanted to make us suffer??
Great read, and talk about keeping my feet on the ground on the subject of shoes.!!!! For me you have give my feet a new soul…better than sore feet. Really enjoyed the adventurous journey through time…thanks.
Wow. Nice hub. I'm glad they have invented artificial materials, as those old shoes do not look particularly comfortable.
Thx Dolores
Ausseye - thank you. Although I admire the look of high heels, I am so over wearing them. I couldn't stand the pain and would probably turn an ankle.
style-of-life - well, I don't know about artificial materials. I love leather or canvas. Plastic shoes are bad for your feet. Thanks!
Great article. The Egyptians wearing flip flops and now everywhere you go they are seen on people's feet. That is the best example of retro fashion that I have seen. Love this hub. Thanks.
cabmgmnt - I love the idea that certain shoes have been around for so long and the idea that flip-flops have been around since the time of the ancient Egyptians really got me. Thank you!
Great hub about ancient shoes. Very interesting to know about them.
Quite a unique topic, and really interesting article!
What an interesting hub, so information about shoes. This was a great read and I learned several interesting facts from this hub, thanks for sharing.
cz - thank you - glad you enjoyed!
Cool stuff and great visuals. Thanks!
This is pretty cool. The Paduka looked super comfy... Not!
Cogerson 11 months ago
Very nicely done Dolores, at the beginning of the hub you mention that some sandals were found in Oregon.....not sure if I followed how old the those sandals were....as always you have included some fascinating information in your hub. Paduka shoes do not look comfortable at all...voted up and useful.